Local B.C. Getaway Guide: Explore Parksville, Qualicum Beach and Nanoose Bay

When wedding guests asked my partner and me what kind of gifts we wanted, we politely lied. “Contribute to our honeymoon fund!” we said, knowing the fund didn’t exist and all we really wanted was cash. The fact is, we had no immediate plans to travel post-wedding. But everyone knows it’s less rude to request financial support for a romantic trip than for boring, frivolous things like rent or groceries or the open bar your guests are about to indulge in.

I’m not saying we didn’t want a getaway, but planning flights and checking baggage and any amount of jetlag sounded like hell, especially after we’d just pulled off the true logistical nightmare that was the best day of our lives. So instead, we snuck off to Vancouver Island a few days after our wedding to explore Parksville, Qualicum Beach, Nanoose Bay and all the idyllic, slow-living glory the seaside has to offer.

Mind Games

The journey to Qualicum Beach from our home in Vancouver isn’t long, but we still found an excuse for a pit stop: brunch at Nanaimo’s The Vault Cafe (499 Wallace St.). Inside a baby pink building lives this eclectic, cozy café, walls splashed with vintage paintings, posters and various animal skull and antler decor. We ordered the open-faced breakfast sandwich ($9), BLTC sandwich ($16) and French toast ($16). Yes, that’s five slices of bread between the two of us, and no, we didn’t regret it at all—especially with the blueberries and sweetened condensed cream on top of those thick cinnamon loaf slices. A tableside deck of Trivial Pursuit cards that I’m sure were several decades old kept us busy (it seemed like a quarter of the answers were “Ernest Hemingway”).

Thrift Shift

“I need to responsibly stimulate the local economy,” I tell my partner every time we go anywhere (read: girl’s gotta shop). This trip was no exception: after a latte at the adorable French Press Coffee Roasters in Qualicum Beach (692 Primrose St.) we walked a few blocks to Curated Consignment (175 Second Ave.), where I bought a $35 houndstooth blazer that’s a total compliment magnet. Parksville’s SOS Thrift Shop (188 W Hirst Ave.) isn’t quite as aesthetic, but it’s huge (18,000 square feet) and awesome for people who love to treasure hunt and their patient husbands.

Seaside Bites

Rain or shine, the window-happy Qualicum Beach Cafe (2690 Island Hwy. W) is flooded with natural light—making it the perfect spot for our second brunch of the vacay. The Blue Swimmer crab benny ($29.75), served on a fresh buttermilk biscuit, is a levelled-up classic, while the bison carpaccio ($20.75) is all elegance with truffle aioli and a little snap of salty capers. The thoughtful cocktail list has curated non-alcoholic options, too (which was ideal for us, since lowkey Island life means you have to drive everywhere).

Wild Side

Errington’s North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre (1240 Leffler Rd.) is meant for animals, but going there feels an awful lot like therapy for humans, too. We got a tour from founder Sylvia Campbell (“Lucky,” said a NIWRA volunteer as he fed a turkey vulture), and the three of us ambled through the lush, lively property checking in on animals that were hurt, sick or orphaned (this isn’t a zoo, it’s more like an al fresco rehab for birds and critters). A long-eared owl with a broken wing (that can’t hunt for itself), red-tailed hawks that were former falconry birds (they imprinted and can’t be released) and a raven with leucism (pigmentation loss and a compromised immune system) are among the avian residents. There are four-legged animals from bunnies to bears, too. It’s well worth the $15 admission to see and learn about the wildlife (and watching an owl’s head spin around never gets old).

Dock and Key 

We stayed at the Fairwinds Residences (3521 Dolphin Dr.), a new seaside condo rental property that’s also home to the Qualicum Beach Cafe. The units have full kitchens, overlook the bay and offer gorgeous sunset views (and knowing that incredible seafood chowder is just upstairs is a bonus). They’re also dog-friendly… seems like the universe is telling us what our next Big Life Move should be.

Triple Threat

Okay, yes, we had brunch a third time. Apparently that’s just what married people do? The Nanoose Bay Cafe (3521 Dolphin Dr.)  opened in summer 2022 and it’s stunning (in fact, we featured the Studio Series-designed space in our November 2023 issue). Located inside the Fairwinds Residences (where we stayed), this café is a beautiful homage to the tall ships that used to moor in the bay. The menu is West Coast with an Asian twist thanks to chef Todd Bright’s tenure in Chinese restaurants: think veggie spring rolls with peanut dip ($12.75), five kinds of housemade dumplings (from $9.75) and an incredible chicken karaage ($19.25). The surprising standout for me was the West Coast  seafood chowder (from $17.50)—it’s a creamy, truly mind-blowing mix of delicate lingcod, smoked salmon and baby scallops that made me wonder if I’ve been unfairly overlooking soup on menus.

Say I Brew

Just before we headed home, we stopped by Rusted Rake Brewing in Nanoose Bay (3106 NW Bay Rd.). As we drank a Rosa the Rebel Mexican Lager (mine) and the Wandering Scotsmans’ Spruce Tip IPA (my partner’s) and looked out over the grassy field and dahlia garden, we couldn’t help but laugh—despite our “no honeymoon” plan and our goal of winding down post-wedding, we’d managed to tackle a jam-packed itinerary in just a few days. I thought this region of the Island would be a good place to do nothing in, but found there actually is a lot to do: restaurants to try, local gems to explore, wildlife to be in awe of. Oh well—we have our whole lives to be bored.

Just Dairyed

Have you ever heard of milk on tap? Parksville’s Little Qualicum Cheeseworks (403 Lowrys Rd.) keeps the pasteurized whole milk flowing—just bring your own container (and cookies for dipping). Owners Albert Gorter and Chelsea Enns took us around the farm, pausing only to complete the very important task of patting easygoing farm dog Emma. I’d never been on a dairy farm before and was surprised to learn that the cows “decide” when they’re going to be milked—they step into a machine that has automatic sensors to get the job done, and are rewarded with a snack post-udder-emptying. They also wear a sensor that won’t let them into the machine if they’ve been in too recently (so a cow can’t milk itself silly just for a little treat). We got a grazing box ($50) for the road and can confirm that the cows do good work: the “Hot Jill” cheese with red chilis was a fave.

Float an Idea

Another thing I have neglected: spas, in general. I’d rather obsessively peruse secondhand clothing or learn about snowy owls than spend a single moment alone with my thoughts (I’m fine!) but my partner likes to “take care of himself” so off to The Grotto Spa at Tigh-Na-Mara (1155 Resort Dr.) we went. The Grotto offers all the classic spa treatments (massages start at $155), or you can pay $95 for two-hour access to “the grotto” itself, which includes a mineral pool, whirlpool, cool waterfall and cedar barrel saunas. We did the latter and it was (I admit) deeply relaxing—I think my brain actually did turn off.

Get Your Goat 

The Old Country Market (also known as Goats on the Roof; 2326 Alberni Hwy.) in Coombs can’t quite be called a hidden gem because it’s so popular with visitors, but the goat-topped market is still a must-visit if you’re in the area. The colourful shelves are stocked full of pasta sauces, honey, rugs, tiles, toys, meat—it’s a whimsical smorgasbord of food and homewares from the Island and beyond.